This set off as a mission to raise an awareness of “Maison Chance” and to raise money for it in both Australia and America. Only time will tell whether I have succeeded to the extent I had hoped. It also turned into a wonderful experience full of challenges and adventure as I travelled the width of USA in the less trodden routes. I have thoroughly enjoyed the journey

However I would like to publicly thank my wonderful wife, Lee, and all my children for their unfettered support and encouragement in allowing me to undertake this journey.

I would also like to thank certain friends who will remain anonymous (but they know who they are), that provided the initial seed capital that allowed it all to happen. I thank all my cycling friends in WRCC who encouraged me both at the outset and all along the way. It has been a real help.

To those who have read the blog and made comments and to my Face book supporters again many thanks – it meant a lot.

And last, but not least, many thanks to the many wonderful ordinary Americans I have met along the way, who offered help advise or just old fashioned plain good company, that made the journey so enjoyable – and safe. There are too many to name and list here. The special ones I have contacted where possible.

Note for my Aussie followers that the Account details  are:-

Suncorp Bank BSB 484 799: Account Name – Maison Chance Australia; Account Number 001644378.

Also via Paypal – request the money to be forwarded to email address maisonchance.au@gmail.com

Please include yr details on the deposit clip and pleeeese be generous

Thursday 6th and Friday 7th October

So back to the 2 Super 8 Motels in Christiansburg – I get to the one as per the Trans-Am Guide map by about 4.30p.m. and booked into a double room and decide after a while to have good soak in the bath before Stu arrives. By 6.30 still no Stu until about 7p.m. (and I am getting worried by now as it is dark and I know he does not have lights and does not like riding in the dark) when he phones me to say he is at the other Super 8 on the other side of town apparently about 5 miles away. (I have no idea how he got over there – it was not on any of our maps.) He is really tired so we agree to stay in our separate Super 8′s with the plan that I will ride over to him by 7.30 the next morning.

I eat for the first time at a Denny’s and am pleasantly surprised with the quality of the food. I had assumed it was just another hamburger/hot-dog outlet but much better than that. Not quite up to the Italian Restaurant in Leitchfield but not far behind. Two good main courses and a desert again (I must remember to stop eating this much when the journey is over!)

Well once again the best laid simple plans of men and mice come to nothing. I leave in time to travel the 5 miles with ‘clear ‘ directions from reception.  Well not that clear- and then after 8 miles I am totally lost and on a Motorway heading back the way we had traveled yesterday.  I phone Stuart to tell him to start without me, confident I will eventually find the right route and be able to catch up with him

Hmm. By the time I was back on route I had already ridden an unnecessary 20 miles (32 klms) including more hills and dangerous negotiating of motorway interchange exits/entrances. I stay calm and get focused on pedaling and catching up. I am convinced he out there ahead of me somewhere and so just get down to a good hard ride chasing him down. The route that the map is advising is along the normal back roads but the road surface is really dead and very uncomfortable.  I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that I am over the Trans-Am route. Back in 1976 it may have been appropriate  but then there was less traffic on these back roads.

I stop off at a roadside shop/cafe for food and speak to the locals who advise that Route 11 is more direct and has a decent shoulder area that should suit our needs.

By now I am convinced I must be ahead of Stu but have no idea where I may have passed him. I try to ring him several times but no network connection yet again. It is not until about 3p.m. that I eventually get a signal and there is a message from him timed at 10.30a.m that says he is at a bike shop just outside Christiansburg but off the route, getting his rear cassette changed (which should have been done at the time he got the chain done). I call and tell him I will see him at the next major town, Lexington, and will wait for him there as I plan to take the Saturday as a rest day before the final ‘sprint’ home. I also pass on the advise about Route 11 and tell him to avoid the official route. There is a distinct possibility that Stu will stop before Lexington and catch up with me the next day as his leg is still hurting him;  that would be fine. The town of Buchanan has plenty of motels and looks pretty cool and is only 20 miles from Lexington. In the end that is what happens and it will be an easy ride for him to catch me the next day.

I check into the Best Western in Lexington and am really lucky to get a room. It is a long weekend and all sorts of events are going on in town. (Lexington is steeped in history surrounding the Civil War.) I have to laugh as I go into my room and find the package below in the bathroom. It reminds me of the Muddies Cricket Club “Duck Award’ for the most ‘ducks’ in the season amongst senior teams. Definitely keeping this!

After 170 klms for the day (including my wasted 32klm detour) I am really looking forward to the rest day.  Special mention here of the young man by the name of Chris on reception duty at the hotel. His people and service skills are outstanding and he proves a good friend over the next two days. I feed at an Applebees restaurant and again good food. At last - I hope no more Gas station food.

All being well Stu should catch up by mid-day and be able to enjoy the rest day. I suspect that his Oct 10th finishing day is out of the window but I will be on time for my date 13th. Problem is there is a warning that the fine weather we have enjoyed for the last week may be about to come to an end by the 11th Oct!

Saturday 8th October – RESTDAY in LEXINGTON

Stu arrives on time and we do short tour around the town and then just chill – don’t even play cards!

However we are concerned about the one last big mountain that we have to climb tomorrow. Stu’s leg is not up to it and he knows it. Back to young Chris- a bit of negotiation and he agrees to take us forward past the hill in his sports car for a fair fee. I am half expecting that Stu and his bike will fit but that me and the ‘coffin’ will have to do the climb. But I am pleasantly surprised to find that the coffin and all the other bags fit in the car (Stu is definitely going to be in the back seat!) and that the bike rack will take both bikes!  Problem solved.  He does warn us however he is not an early morning person and that it will be around 9a.m. before he will pick us up.

Sunday 9th October  Hey Chris is as good as his word and is even early but needing his coffee fix big time. He takes us to a place called Rockfish Gap and we are on the road along Route 250 by 10.30. Suddenly the 10th Oct finishing date is back on the agenda again provided Stu’s leg holds up. We are off the Trans-Am taking a more direct and in my opinion a safer route. We agree to stay together as best we can until Charlottesville, which is a city we have to go through. (Stu is not comfortable in heavy traffic and we have been warned the signage is not that good.)

Well the signage is not the problem but the traffic is and so finally I have my first (and hopefully only) accident and come an absolute cropper when this car, being driven by someone who has been god’s waiting room too long and clearly should not be driving any more sent me flying. Stu was right behind me when it happened and he says the car overtook me barely leaving any room and then just drifted to the right into me knocking over into the middle of the lane.  Luckily  damage  to me was minimal apart from a few cuts and bruises and a jarred neck and no damage to the bike or coffin – indeed the weight of the coffin may have slowed my fall. More importantly the following drivers were alert to the situation and did not run me over. I was less than amused once I had picked myself up. I go to speak to the driver - he looked about 90 yrs old and was clearly shaken up and shaking like a leaf. I could not be bothered to rant and rave at him and just advised him to stay calm and wait till he had settled — yeah right – I turned to walk back to my bike and within five steps he was gone whoosho!

I knew if I stayed still I would soon stiffen up so I decided to ride on asap and aim for Richmond or nearby to leave a short ride for the last day (hopefully).  The accident definitely upset Stu more than it did me and I realized it was important not to show if I was hurt of upset. I tried to convey the attitude that someone else’s incompetence was not going to spoil my day. I promised Stu I would stop at the 1st motel I came to in Richmond that was on our side of the rode. I was not keen to cross any more major roads!  Rest of the journey was uneventful and Stu arrived about 1 hour behind me at the Marriott Hotel! Not cheap but manageable with shared costs.

A total of 131 klms for the day

Monday 10th October – The last day As expected I wake up sore and stiff from the accident and very tired. The main issue is a bruised thigh and a stiff neck. On the other hand Stu wakes up like a kid on Christmas Day – all excited and hyped up. I began to wonder what was in his pain killers and muscle relaxants!  He was keen or anxious to get out of the City traffic as soon as possible and several times I had to say ‘Slow  down- stay focused’. I began to wonder if he had been foxing these past few days he was going that well, but it may have been partly because I was definitely hurting and could not give riding my full potential. Anyway I eventually got him to settle into a sensible and even pace and although it took a bit longer than expected to get out of Richmond and back onto the designated Trans-Am along Route 5 there were no further incidents of note.

At Williamsburg, the last town before the final destination of Yorktown, we asked a local cyclist  directions through the town and he turned out to be another ‘angel’ who took us under his wing, detouring from his own morning ride to guide us through the city and onto the right path- but most importantly introduced us to his favourite snack bar and showing us Jefferson’s house, which now serves as the State Governor’s residence, (Virginia definitely seems much more affluent that most of the places we have come through)

Carl thanks a lot for you time and help. (Carl rides 45 miles everyday!)

And so the last 21 klms or 13 miles to York Towm - ‘Home and Hosed’ and relieved. It is almost an anti-climax. As we are taking our important photos Stu’s wife, Barbara, pulls up beside us with a huge banner for him.

 One for us

 One for Maison Chance

  and one for Club (WRCC) who have been behind me all the way (Thanks Guys and gals)

After this shoot we go down to the water front for the traditional dipping of the wheel – I am agreeably surprised as to how warm the water.

  I am the skinny one on the right ha ha

It was also good that Stu’s original riding partner, Tommy, was on hand to join him in their own wheel dipping ceremony.

Then off to the local pub (next to my hotel for the next 2 nights) for some well earned beers and food.

Rest time at last.  Very pleased with myself and I have enjoyed the journey but I also remember this was a mission to raise money for people very close to my heart. I hope I have succeeded.

Now time to reflect but before I forget. Thanks for the Journey Stu

Tuesday 4th October Well decision has been made and we off load about 10 kilos of stuff from the coffin and send it forward to the York Town Post Office. The decision means no more camping except in the case of emergencies as the cooking stuff has gone ahead. Stu snores a lot and gets up 5-6 times a night to go to the toilet so hope we don’t have to camp!

The impact of the offload is immediately positive. Not only just because of the reduced weight but also because the lower profile of the ‘coffin’ allows me to get out the saddle on the hills.  all good so far.

Yesterday’s efforts have left me quite jaded and there is not a lot of push in these legs but because of the delayed start (visit to the Post office) we have decided it make it a short day anyway.  We soon pass into Virginia , our 10th and last State.

The change in scenery is almost immediate. It opens up and the colours of the autumn trees are beautiful in the bright sunshine. It is easy to relax and enjoy. Also the roads seem better. I already like Virginia. Two other pluses – (1) not a dry state so a beer will be gettable at the end of the day and (2) no more mad dogs chasing you all the time. (Last day in Kentucky two Aussie cattle dogs came out at me and I thought I was in serious bother but luckily a car came the other way and frightened them off!)

I say we took it easy – well most of the way. We saw Stu’s mates ahead and we could not resist the urge to overtake them on a hill. Stu enjoyed that enormously!

After 80 klms we call it a day and rest up at Elk Park Methodist Church just outside Rosedale. It is in beautiful settings.

We play cards again and Stu wins his first game of Crib – at last.

I notice that my rear wheel is out of true. I do my best to adjust the spokes but I think it needs a professional touch. It might also explain why the Garmin is playing up!

Wednesday 5th  October  Well this is a very cold start and also thick fog.For the first time I get out the leg-warmers and so don a bright yellow beanie I had brought for such mornings. I have all my flashing lights on and set off to Damascus (the next town with a listed bike shop) like a Christmas Tree.  I race ahead with the plan to get there about an hour ahead of Stu so as to cause no delays. (Stu is still hoping to finish on the 10th).The fog soon burns off and all goes well. Plan works and I get there and have the wheel fixed for the time being and have a look around the town, which had been highly recommended by my son who had passed through it 15 months earlier a he did the Appalachian Trail.  Cool little town although I was less than impressed with the food at the local cafe. Maybe the sign on the menu board should have warned me “Roadkill cafe”  (ha ha)

From thereon the day went downhill. Stu arrived and decided to get his Garmin (cadence counter) checked. Long story short but he went to a different bike shop adn got conned into getting a new chain- we lost 3 1/2 hours and so the days planned destination went out the window. Stu got very stressed and I got impatient.

However the Virginia scenery helped calm us both and we ended up all cool at Sugar Grove where I found another baptist Church to stay in. The locals were once again very helpful and obliging. Despite the delays we had still done 100klms for the day

On the way I came across an interesting derelict house at Koonarock that had to be photographed

I must admit i am getting tired of gas station food but in these small towns there is not much choice expecially as I have now forwarded my cooking gear.

Thursday 6th October  Another cold start but no fog and clearly going to be another beautiful day. Note my gear – even wearing a beanie now to try and stay warm!  You sexy thing ha ha

Before setting out I tried to sort Stu’s gears that were proving anything but smooth since the change of the chain (surprise surprise). I made some improvement but it is definitely a concern. Our target is Christenburg and journey of about 80 miles or 125 klms. My rear wheel is still not as I would like it to be but is is not causing any major problems and is certainly better than yesterday. At one point I thought I had missed a turn and so back-tracked about 4 miles only to find that I had not gone forward quite far enough. That meant I had to climb the same hills 4 times – just what I needed!)  Once again we caught up with Jimmy Bob and Tom and this time Jimmy made a better attempt than me to fix my wheel.

One of the best laughs for a long time when Icame across this garden set out for Halloween. The best by far and it kept me chuckling the rest of the day.

I had to join in!  

After luch it was agreed I would press ahead and that we would meet at the Super 8 motel in Chrstainburg an that I would make the booking. Stu leg was playing up and so he needed to take his time. Seemed like a good plan – BUT no-one told us there where two Super 8′s.  Makes the next two days very interesting – more on that later as I have to go now! After after my retrack still did 138klms for the day

Well much has happened since last update and many miles or klms have been travelled.  I am currently in Lexington Virginia enjoying a well earned rest-day before the final ‘sprint home. Only 450 klms to go - whoopee!

But back to the update. Those who have been following the blog ill remember I was stuck inn Centreville with rain again whilst under canvas. Well the night we set up camp I disturbed a wasp nest on the ground and they got their revenge by stinging multiple times all around both ankles (they seemed to be attracted to my smelly socks -ha ha). I did not get any serious reaction except annoying itching whilst trying to sleep or whenever I got warm whilst peddling. That all settled down after a few days with no serious problems but that was not to be my only experience with wasps. (see later)

Another thing I forgot to mention is we passed by Abraham Lincoln’s original cottage in Illinois and I will upload the photo later.

Anyway back to the journey

Thursday 29th September We leave Sebree after a good rest but I knew I had not eaten enough the previous day (or maybe it was the lack of a beer the previous evening!) and I was low on energy most of the day despite munching on ‘energy-bars’ all day. We continued along the official route until Fall of the Rocks (71 miles) and our planned destination was a small town of Sonara. However at Falls after discussions with locals we decided to leave the trail and go an alternative route on a better road but after about 20 miles I had had enough for the day (even Stu who had offloaded half his panniers to his nephew was ready to stop) and we stopped at Leitchfield (142 klms for the day) and boy oh boy was that a blessing! We came across this Italian restaurant and I can say without doubt the best meals I have had since leaving home.  I say meals because I had a huge dish of Chicken fettuccine (main course size) followed up by 12oz Rib-eye fillet and veggies. Plus 5 beers! (not a bad night) The body felt good.

Friday 30th September Well they say the best laid plans of mice and men – well this was the day that proved it. Overnight we had poured over the maps and planned the best alternative routes to get back onto the Trail with the intent of reaching the town of Harrodsburg, an approximate distance of 120 klms. We set off on a good cycling day but after 60klms we realize we have misread the map (again). I am not worried as I quickly realize the mistake is hugely in our favour. The journey might be longer but it is safer on good roads and less sharp hills, but Stu flapped a bit and for a while it affected his cycling as it had not gone as he expected. (‘Still got to ride to the journey’s end so no point in worrying’ is my attitude)

I must admit his riding technique has improved considerably and I would like to think I have helped a bit there.

The first 120 klms was good cycling and we stopped off at an interesting little cafe “Suzie O’s”  – food was Ok but the interesting thing was the music they where playing and the display of old records they had. How many of you remember L.P’s? Trouble is I remember most of those on display from when they first came out – a real reality test!

Two incidents today – A huge Custard Apple falls out of a tree and luckily I was wearing my helmet (as always -think I need to buy a new one when I get home – it stinks!) but it gave me one hell of a fright.  It was warm and I had my shirt part open to let some cool air in. Unfortunately it let a wasp in and it proceeded to sting me a couple of times. Whats all this with me and wasps in USA?  From now on both mouth and shirt shut so no more flies or wasps!

It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and finally understood why they say Kentucky Blue Grass (It definitely has that rich hue.)

The last 50+ klms ride into Harrodsburg was tough especially when we missed a turn off to a small road on the route and for the 1st time it felt dangerous as a few young drivers with a hostile attitude came past us. The plan was to camp but instincts warned me not to. Stu was going to spent a night with relatives who live about 30 mins away. I was invited but I declined as I thought he would  enjoy more quality time alone with them and the plan is for a major reunion tomorrow with relatives and friends. Distance for the day 173klms

I find a cheap motel and then wander down to a local eatery and there I have a great evening being entertained by four lovely old ladies (hark at me but they were old compared to me)  There names were Gee Gee, Joyce, June and Martha (who had suffered a stroke 4 yrs earlier but had maintained a wonderfully positive attitude) They wanted to know all about me, Australia and The ride etc. It was a real fun chat and lots of laughs all round and then at the end of the evening Gee Gee opened her purse and emptied $15 to the cause. I felt embarrassed to accept it but she insisted. It just goes to show that given the opportunity people will always care for others.

Well only 1250 klms to go. Almost feels like we can smell the sea ha ha

Saturday 1st October  Stu returns with his nephew Shaun who offers to take care of the coffin for the day – No second thoughts from me and the bike performs ( or was it me) like a horse that has been fed on oats and then let out of the stable.

It is only going to be a short day (72 klms) into Berea where we are meeting up for the reunion with Stu’s family and friends. We take a slight detour onto a safer road. It does not reduce distance or the number of hills but it is safer. And I really enjoy the chance to ride without the “coffin’

Berea is a beautiful city built round the University that was the 1st one committed to educating the poor and the coloureds post civil war. It maintains that committment today. The hotel and many of the business arounfd it are committed to providing employment to the students. They in turn have to commit to approx 15 hours work in one of the businesses per a week.

The whole town has a lovely feel about it.  I started to wander around but did not get far as I discovered a home-made fudge shop with sooo many flavours to choose from.  Sorry caveman diet – gone for the day!

Stu’s friend prove to very engaging and make me very welcome. They insist on paying for our meals. Again I find we are in a  ‘dry-town but we enjoy a sly-grog session in the hotel room that included beer, good wine and a small selection of Bourbons. (Can you believe it? Tennessee and Kentucky are the home of some of the best Bourbons in the world but they cannot drink it!!- Crazy world)

A wondrfull refreshing interlude to the journey and the next morning we set off after breakfast an fond farewells.

Sunday 2nd October 

It was a really cool start with frost still n the roofs but a clear day that soon warmed up. The name of the 1st town we head for is Big Hill and very aptly named but it was a good steady climb that allowed you to get into a steady rhymn. I enjoyed it.

Along the way I thought I saw a real live beaver and got excited but i was later told it was something called an Nutrient? Oh well

I was riding through a small town called Vincent and thinking this is a nice friendy place. At the same time I was in a considerable amount of discomfort looking for a pee break. I see these two gentlemen standing at the front of a house and the conversation goes as follows:- ME ” G’day mate. Excuse me- any chance of using your toilet?” after a short pause the slow drawn out reply come ” I really don’t think so” So much for ‘friendly -maybe it is the way I am dressed. They may think I am one of their Halloween dolls!

Lunchtime stop at Boonville. now just for the Australian readers this is not named after our very own David Boone – famous cricketer and beer drinker (he woud not survive in another dry town) but rather afte Danial Boone famous indian fighter and friend of Davey Crocket and who died at the Battle of the Alamo and was played by Fess Parker in a movie about 50 yrs ago!

After lunch the day became more difficult as the hills increased and then the planned stop off point had no services so we had to press on another 20 miles to a town called Hazard. All in all though a good day (148 klms)

Monday 3rd October  This proved to be the toughest day of the whole ride so far as we make our way into the Appalachian foothills. The start of the day was OK with long steady climbs but  that soon changed with lots of sharp and very nasty climbs that prove that I have to do something about lightening up or getting ride of the coffin. I had to get off and push several times. It was cold and overcast all day with rain threatening most of the time. I actually rode with my front and rear lights on most of the afternoon. I considered the route selected by the Trans Am as dangerous and unsuitable. It might have been OK back in 1976 when there was less traffic on the roads but not today. Some of the downhills were very curvey and curves were very poorly signed and had deep open ditches either side of the narrow roads. One slip up and you would be in the ditches and ride over. Having said that I did enjoy the last 7 miles downhill on more open roads. We reached Elkhorn City in the dark

As I was about to leave the local cafe (poor food and yet again a dry town – thank goodness out of Kentucky tomorrow) Stu’s former riding partners walk in. They had ridden the last  2 hrs in total darkness- braver than me in these conditions.

Overnight at the hotel we decide I will remove all non-essential stuff and post it forward to York Town Post Office.. I go to bed quite worried about the next few days through the mountains – will the offload be enough?

Monday 26th September  My 31st wedding anniversary and I have remembered to send a card and to phone my good wife!

We wake to clear skies but it was so cold. My sleeping bag was really damp from the condensation in the tent from the previous nights storm and sleep had been minimal. Packing up everything in the dark was painful and my fingers really hurt. Today was the first time I had got out the legwarmers and the arm warmers. I even put on the cheap little waterproof jacket I had bought in Eureka. (best $ 3 value ever) As the sun came out a heavy mist covered our road out of town, We set off after a warm , though not necessary healthy breakfast with  concerns as to what lay ahead. We are also both a bit tense and edgy about our ability to maintain our scheduled finish date.

However as the day wore on things actually got better. The fog burned off really quickly, the day warmed up to  very comfortable riding conditions; the scenery and countryside was very enjoyable.  The only issue causing us both angst was which route to take – stick to the Official Trans Am or deviate to more direct but busier routes which may not be so safe. The agreed lunch stop was at Farmington but on the way I stop at a gas station and see the following sign on a coffee machine (I hate to say it but US coffee is by and large just aweful!) but I had to try the  pumpkin spice.  It tasted good but it was not coffee.

At Farmington tensions are running high but we receive collective advise from a number of independent sources that all say, “leave the Trans Am for a while and follow Route 32″ to St Genevieve where there are a number of hotels and we will then be able to make educated choices the next morning.  It is agreed. Again I race ahead and secure a good cheap motel ($45 a double room or $22.50 each) We even get a spare room to hang out to dry all our wet camping gear, Only let down is no quality internet access again but we are used to that by now! Total  distance for the day 116klms.

Eating choices galore but we want steak and veggies and we are directed to the Old Brick House. It does us proud again at a good price washed down with  a few Bud Lites and Amberbacks

St. Genevieve is evidently the oldest town west of the Mississippi, founded by the French and surrendered to the English and the Old Brick House is the oldest building. The whole old part of the town looked very interesting and it is a shame we did not hav more time to explore it.

Tensions are over as we have made the decisions about our routes and agendas. Tomorrow we are going to cross the mighty Mississippi into Illinois

Tuesday 27th September Up bright and early and thank goodness it is nowhere as near as cold as yesterday. More importantly and for the 1st time in the whole journey a strong and favourable tail wind that lasts all day. And what made it even better was that although we made several mistakes on direction during the day, every one turned out in our favour by either avoiding hard hills or by shortening the official route by several miles. Stu was very pleased.

So two highlights of the day. Obviously the Mississipi, although we did not see it at its grandest (but then we would have to go along way south for that)

and a super surprise.  As we arrive in the town of Chester we find that it is the home of Popeye the Sailorman. ha ha   Well we can’t go past the museum etc without popping in can we?  Talk about childhood memories and now presents for the grandkids

After that as we move on, I see a hair salon next to a bike shop and take the opportunity to get a haircut (first one in 2 months and long overdue!) whilst my Garmin, which had been playing up, is fixed at no cost  The lady cutting my hair (Spanish speaking) kept saying she wanted to make me look beautiful and ‘andsome. I tried to explain “you cannot make a silk purse out of a pig’s ear” or too late for miracles. She refused to understand! But I am sure my friends from WRCC will understand mission impossible.

So we make it to Marion Illonois( (125 Klms). This time Stuart goes ahead (whist I was having the hair cut) and books the hotel (same price again v good).It is  important for him to have I/T connectivity but again he is disappointed. However McDonalds is just down the road and thy have free wifi so we spend the next hour there pretending to drink their coffee etc whilst he updates his blog ha ha

Been a good day for both of us and it is finished with the best value buffet at Ryans Steak House. As much as you can eat and all very healthy even down to the no sugar added apple pie!

Stu reveals that his has a leg problem (maybe a trapped nerve that kicks in after about 4 hrs ride). We think it maybe because he is trying too hard to catch me all day. So we decide that tomorrow he will set off about an hour ahead of me and then we have a chance of arriving at the agreed lunch point at the same time. It will take the pressure off him. This time we are crossing the Ohio River into Kentucky. For some reason we both believe it will be another ferry crossing and so that is the agrreed meeting point! Good night sleep needed as the journey is to be another 120+ klms.

Wednesday 28th September  Bit dull and overcast and a few drops of drizzle at 7 as Stu leaves. I wait at Macca’s for an hour checking emails on their wifi and by then the drizzle had gone but remained a threat most of the day. But good roads and again tailwinds though not as strong as yesterday. The plan would have been perfect had Stuart not had to pop into a shop to buy cheap specs- he had misplaced his reading ones – and he did not leave his bike in an obvious place and so I whizz past him unknowingly. Hicup 1: Hiccup 2 is there is no ferry just this bloody great steep incline bridge with no bike lane and awefully large expansion joints that could swallow a whole bike let alone just a bike wheel. Hiccup 3 – no phone connectivity (again) so we cannot contact each other to double check. After waiting about 1/2 an hour for Stu I attack the bridge and at the last moment manage to avoid the expansion joints. Luck is on my side for I had no passing trucks as I cross and now enter Kentucky

Hiccup 4, the agreed lunch rest point does not exist and still no phone connectivity. Anyway I reach the agreed destination of Sebree by 2p.m. and still no contact from St until about 3.30 when we finally both have connection and he is only about 1/2 and hour away and more importantly he is feeling good. The pana of taking the pressure off him has worked even if everything else was a stuff up!

As I ride into Sebree  notice that already the Hallowe’en decorations are out even though it is not due until the end of Oct. I had not realized that it was such a big event . The two photos show the extent to which people will go in preparation. It is almost bigger than Christmas.

Tonight we are staying in the local First Baptist Church and they have made us so welcome and even provided us supper at no cost.

I usually like to finish the day with a couple of beers. This town has 7 churches or chapels but if I want a beer I have to ride 20 miles (32 kls) in either direction – we are again in a dry county!

Tomorrow morning we will be leaving behind most of Stu pannier bags to be collected by a relative and that should allow him to travel with me much more comfortably and allow us to put in more big days to get ahead of schedule.

My schedule is still 113th Oct but Stu wants to finish by 10th. We will see how it goes.

Thursday 22nd Sept  Well it looks like I spoke too soon, We wake up in Marshfield to pouring rain again. Disappointing but to be honest I think Stuart needed a rest day. We spend most of the time in the hotel playing cards with me teaching him Crib. Lucky for him we did not play for money! ha ha. As the day cleared in the afternoon, we used the car park to help teach him some gear changing drills (the double shift etc) that should help him on the hills and to keep up a bit better. Please note that Stuart has limited cycling experience and this is a huge undertaking by him and every little bit of advise is a huge bonus for him (even if it is from me) I am just passing on the helpful tips my colleagues at WRCC have given me over the past 3 years. I was surprised to learn that Voltarin is a prescription only item over here. I do not remember that being the case in Australia.  Although the motel we stayed  in was excellent they did not provide main meals and so we ate twice at a little Mexican place (they are everywhere here) but the food was very ordinanry and no option to pursue the caveman diet. Whatever it was, it did not agree with me and I wa not in the best riding condition next day; not ill but just no get up and go.  One good thing about the motel was the unlimited supply of bananas – this will make the Ozzies sit up. Price is less than $1 a kilo (And they are imported!). That is good reason to pig out on them!  

Friday23rd Sept:  We wake up  to a beautiful day – not a cloud in the sky and no wind and off to an early start only to find another damed detour.  Something I had forgotten to mention from a couple of earlier entries. Becasue the holiday season is over, the local council are now out doing lots of road repairs and it seems to be all the little bridges are being done at once. Sometimes you have long detours or others you have to dismount and carry your bike (and  trailer) across difficult and often muddy approaches to the temporary structures. Makes it interesting !! Anyway this detour was at least on a decent road and we came across interesting sights such as Amish farmers in their horse and buggy carts   

Note I have not swapped bike; I am merely holding Stuarts bike while he takes the photo! By lunch time we have made 100klms but I am feeling very flat – damned Mexican food – so I know I need some real meat. Where do I find this – at a hamburger joint?. For a bloke who does not eat Hamburgers I do really well- I eat two doubles with bacon but leave the bread and I immediately feel better. After lunch we set off and after about a mile we realize we have missed our turn-off (love these detours self inflicted or otherwise) and press on to Summerville a total trip for the day of 156 klms or 100 miles. The countryside is really beautiful and the conditions good although becoming more hilly. And even if I say so myself, the tips re gear changes etc seem to have helped Stuart. He rode really well today – or maybe it was just the rest day that helped! At Summerville we book into a small cheap but really good motel that costs just $45 for a double. and then head for a good meal at the Hungry Moose. Good value and great service.- even got to use our 10% discount vouchers from the motel – somehow I managed to turn that into a 20% discount. They had a great display of stuffed animals from around the world. I could not believe the size of the moose head. i decide to feed Stuart to the animals ha ha So well fed and really pleased with ourselves we return to the motel, pack everything for an early start as we plan for another 100mile day.

Saturday 24th Sept The morning looks good with perfect conditions and the plan is to reach the town of Bismark, The scenery is beautiful and the 1st hour goes to plan. Hills but manageable with an almost ‘sling-shot’ effect as you get a roller coaster effect. However it then changes very suddenly and no more roller coaster effect. Lots and lots of spikes with no chance to regain momentum in between the spikes which according to Stuart’s Garmin reading are consistently in the 11-13% gradient range.  I lost count of the number of times I saw this sign but I assure you they were not joking! They only placed then at the top of the hills but as sure as eggs is eggs for every downhills there is an equal uphill I think today is the first time I have felt under-geared.with my bike. I had to get off and walk a few times but even then once or twice I was able to walk uo faster than Stuart was peddling with his three front cranks. No reflection on Stuart – just a reflection of the gradients. I was more puffed at the top walking than I was if I had been peddling. Maybe I should have read the blurb on the maps more closely – “Exhausted riders have likened this part of the trail as one long self propelled roller coaster ride” Mmmm.

Up un til now I am the only rider I have seen with my combination of front ranks and rear cassettes and it has stood me in good stead so far. Here ‘s hoping I don’t get caught out again especially in the Appalachians. By lunch time I was ready to stop for the day but Stuart was keen to get at least 60 miles in for the day if possible and so we pushed on to Centreville after a decent rest period. Luckily the second part of the day was much easier with the spikes.. The one good thing about the spikes is I had to rest a few times and that gave me the opportunity to look around and appreciate the beautiful scenery. I reckon that in a couple of week the full colours of fall will take over as the leaves change from green to reds and orange.

I race ahead to Centreville and secure a camp spot in the front of the local Court house next to the Sheriff’s office. No conditions about alcohol in the park this time – just nowhere to buy it! A good meal and we are ready for an early night after a really hard day. I think I am asleep by 8.30 but before I drop off I can hear Stuart snoring loudly from his tent. Tomorrow will be another hard day through the hills but not like this morning. We have sorted out our program and are confident that a minimum of 70 miles per day will get us through on schedule to finish up in York Town Virginia by the 12 or 13^th October

We will be ready for another early start – or so I think.

11.30p.m. Crack – a huge thunder bang that wakes me up and has me sitting bolt upright in my tent Yep more rain and the thunder claps keep going all night. I am now hoping we are not going to be washed away by morning.

Sunday 25^th September Another enforced rest day- but at least not washed away. More card playing. I tried to borrow a pack from the Sheriff’s Office but unbelievably they did not have a pack in the station.(not like in my day in the Police Force !) I note that in they have a really interesting collection of old dope types on display in their foyer.

We also spend serious time considering our options re offloading the ‘coffin’ and the panniers to gain speed. Calls for help going out left right and centre as time is now a major concern due to the weather. If we can off load or get them carried forward we can still cycle in the rain as the added weight is no longer a danger.  Fingers crossed.

Monday 19th September I wake to the great news that I have a new granddaughter, Tiggy May, born to Toby and Samantha overnight; and then I look out the window to see not a cloud in the sky and the trees are motionless. No wind at last. This is going to be a good day on all counts and I am on the road by 7a.m (Still only 1/2 light) and decide I am going to catch Stuart sometime during the day.

The scenery is changing and becoming much more interesting with hedges, trees and even some minor hills and all the while I am smiling both inside and outside . Sorry no photos as I was just too  damned busy enjoying myself. Even after stopping to make a series of phone calls to inform everyone about the new granddaughter, I still cover 200klms to reach Pittsburg (the last town in Kansas before passing into Missouri). A good day but still no sign of Stuart. Surely he cannot be ahead of me still.

Another great sign of American hospitality. I am having an evening meal -another good steak buried under a pile of veggies- and talking to a young couple in the bar about the ride etc and the next minute as they get up to leave they tell me the meal is paid for. I did not even get to know their names but hopefully they will get to read this  and realize I really appreciated it.

Next morning I am about to pull out for an early start, when this guy holds the door open for me with the comment “Another crazy cyclist – like my mate. Are you doing the transcontinental?” I start to respond and he says ‘Oh you are that Australian I have heard about”.  He is Stuart’s mate and they had been sleeping in the room next door to me. Somewhere along the way I had overtaken Stuart previous day – maybe he had slept in!

Now for a long story  made short.- They are going to visit the town of Joplin that had been devastated by the Cyclone 4 months ago and I am invited to join them. Stuarts friend (John Smithies) drives us there and the photos are below. I am not sure how the community will recover or how long it will take. Whole segments of the community just gone- Where there were blocks of houses and estates, there are now just empty space. It took mansions as well as smaller homes and wiped out a major hospital building.

On the way back to pick up our bikes John and I are talking and it transpires that he knows my small home village of Brixworth in England very well and often visits friends who still live there. Scary how small this world is!

Stuart and I have now agreed to be riding buddies for the rest of this trip – his original mates are at least 2 or 3 days back. We will ride at our own pace – especially up hills but the company will be good.

We are now in Missouri and the route via all the safe back roads is lots of rolling hills but some are quite sharpe. For my colleagues in WRCC it is a bit of a combination of West Mount Cotton (the nip at the top) and the 7 Sisters but more like the 70 sisters,. Challenging and definitely need to be on top of your gear changes but so much more interesting that Kansas!

Also because we are in the smaller farm areas where the homes etc are much closer to the roads we face new hazard that provides us with some moments of entertainment and or even trepidation. Farm dogs that love to come out and chase us. The most at one time so far has been three. Most times if we yell at them they beat a hasty retreat but one Boxer dog proved very persistent and almost had me off the road and off the bike but for the help of a van driver who happened to be following at that moment. A loud blast from his horn solved the problem for me. Stu is quite hap[py fo me to lead the way because when he comes through a few minutes later the dogs rarely bother him!  Never a dull moment

Last night we camped in the city park at Everton  a small town. The police come by and give approval on the condition – No Alcohol! Well I suppose that is what water bottles are for though first time I have drunk beer out of one.

Then today we rode about 105 klms or 60 miles to Marshfield. On the way we stopped at this eatery for lunch. We thought the name was appropriate!

Lets hope the weather holds because the last few days have been perfect riding conditions.

Firstly apologies for delays in updates. You would not believe how hard to get access to a PC here. Anyway here goes.

After leaving the lovely and very helpful ladies at Cuppa Joe’s at Ness City I rode to Larned with a view to meeting up with Jeremy the nephew of one the ladies at Cuppa Joe’s. Unfortunately he did not show but I can honestly say with was one of the toughest and scariest days on the bike, Horrendous head winds down narrow roads that are used by big trucks. Every time they passed in either direction you had to hang on for dear life and hope you did not get sucked under any following traffic.

I was glad to be able to call into the historical Fort Larned (briefly a posting for a young General Custer) just to escape the winds

After 105 klms I was glad to finish. How strong was the wind?- well put simply if you spat the spit ball went 15-20 meters straight out to the right. Again so much for the promised prevailing westerly winds

After a good nights rest and an early breakfast I head out to Hesston a distance of about 100 miles or 160klms. Still head-winds but nowhere as bad as yesterday – the spitballs only went 10meters. It is getting cooler and although I am complaining about the damned wind I know it is holding back a seriously wet weatherfront that is trying to overtake me. (Blame it onto the Canadians who have sent down this cold front). At the restaurant that night I have a nice  surprise when the manageress, who has taken an interest in my journey and cause, dishes me an extra helping of caramel dessert (oops sorry caveman diet) and then informs me the whole meal is on the house. A much appreciated gesture.

Next day, the 15th, I press on to Eureka but the weather is overtaking me and I manage to book into a small cheap but more than adequate motel just in time. I decide that after 4 days of fighting the wind etc, that the next day will be a deserved rest day and then the clincher. Whilst eating at the local restaurant (Copper Kettle – great food great value and great service) I see an advert for a massage.   Just what this old body needs and so the massage is booked and I think the rain will pass me by during my rest day – perfect.

Well the massage was great – thanks Gia – but th rain does not pass me by. It stays for three whole days and four nights with thunder and lightening in full accompliment day and night.

Although frustating to be delayed I must admit the rest-up did me no harm at all- the only draw back was the fact that Eureka is a dry town but then that may not have been a bad thing in reality.  It was interesting having the chance to walk around a typical mid-west country town. Put bluntly it is struggling . It is a long time since I have seen so many empty or boarded up shops, and then many of those that were open were operating for limited hours only. The people were very friendly and helpful  but you could see it was not easy-time for them.  You then listen to the politicians or should I say the fools posturing on the hill in Washington and you realise they really have no understanding of what is happening in the real wold. The mid west, and probably the majority of the states are suffering from a huge sense of disenfranchisement.

The rain finally stops on Suday afternoon but too late for me to get a start but I am already packed for the Monday morning early departure. Late Sunday afternoon another cyclist whom I had met earlier in the trip comes through looking like a drowned rat. His name is Stuart Coffey and I had met him briefly in Sula in Montana. He is doing the ride as part of his 60th birthday gig with a couple of mates. This time there is no sign of the mates (they do not like getting up for early starts). I offer him to share my room for the night but he decides to press on for another 25 miles and we part on the vague promise we will watch out for each other along the way. – More on that later

So Kansas had failed to deliver on following winds,had insisted on raining on me and provided the most boring scenery I had come across for a long time but I had still enjoyed the challenges presented but I am looking forward to a change of scenery soon.

After a late start I ride to Ordway about 84 klms. Steady slight climb and more headwinds again. What happened to the promising westerly winds? but at least no rain and very pleasant temperature. I stay at the Ordway hotel, which featured in the original Trans-Am ride in 1976.
I decide I want to leave early the next morning and make the serious mistake of leaving without breakfast. I had assumed that other eating places would be open along the way.WRONG! I had to go 60 miles before I found food. Luckily I came across three older and wiser gentlemen in an old ‘ute who gave me a supply of energy bars and water. On the way I passed the official half-way point of the journey but the sign has been removed so no photo.
So at Eads I am enjoying a well earned feed and am joined by another cyclist Jeremy (again traveling in the opposite direction) who gives me some tips on where to stay including a stopover in a church in Sheridan Lake. By the way, his bike is an amazing self converted mountain bike into a tourer. The kit cost about $500.

I press on to Sheridan Lake making a round trip of about 143 klms or (90 miles) for the day and I am made very welcome by Virgil the local minister and his family including a delightful little chatterbox named Victoria. No need to sent up tent or even sleeping bag as I fall asleep in a very comfortable rocking chair.

Virgil kindly treats me to breakfast before I set off for Scott City (128 klms or 80 miles). Now do not expect too many photos of this part of the journey as the landscape is flat as a tack. You can almost see the curvature of the earth. The major landmarks are the wheat silos and they are located In the main on the outskirts of each small town. You think it is only 5 miles away but 20 miles on and it is still there – 5 miles becomes 25 miles or 8 klms becomes 40 klms. It is a whole new perspective on distance and I have learnt not to give myself false hopes and just to concentrate on just counting down the miles.

In Scott City I have an interesting and rewarding experience. I am in a bar (again)and joining in a conversation with some “bikies – Harleys etc and they are asking me what I am doing and why. I tell them about the charity and out of nowhere comes a $50 note for the cause. Knocked my socks of and shows never never judge a book by it’s cover. (Thanks a lot Shane McBride whose motto is ‘Only God can judge me’ – it is one of his many tattoos)

SUNDAY 9/11
I decide to have a late start and to respectfully watch the 9/11 Memorial ceremonies. I remember that eventful day so well, like most people, and I am quite moved by it all.
I eventually set off for Ness City at 9.45 and completed the the 88 klms ride in just under 3 hours. I had ridden the first 10miles with a lady from Scott City who has just entered retirement after selling the local IGA shop. It was a pleasure to ride with someone for a while. After that it was meant to be a recovery ride but I was so enjoying it with no wind in my face that me and the coffin could not behave. The undertaker was having fun.
I honestly don’t remember being this fit for a long time, if ever, and am enjoying it. I certainly have built up a good cycling base. since I started this trek I have pulled in the belt 2 notches and here re no more notches to go. I dare not weigh myself but I do not need any more cold weather thank you.
SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT: MELISSA ROLLISON WORLD CHAMPION TRIATHLETE. Melissa is one of my home club members who has been in the USA for the last 3 months training and winning everything. On Sunday she won in Las Vegas and is now world champion. So so proud of you and the reward for all your efforts. I dare them to leave you out of the Olympic selection process now. Go you good thing!

I am now resting in Ness City ready for a few long rides over the next week -wind permitting. I am sitting in a little cafe where they are serving good simple healthy food. the people who have lent me their I Pad have made it feel like home – good people everywhere.

Well Colorado and I were not able to do real justice to each other which is a great shame.
Chris’s mate Seth (from the A/T days)picked me up from Rawlings and drove me some 250 miles to Fort Morgan near Denver (a big thanks to Margarete and Seth – had a I realized it was so far I would have never dared accept your invitation)where I enjoyed two days r&r staying with Seth and his mad bulldog named Gabby.(Sorry Gabe from WRCC but the comparisons were too obvious)
We also caught up with another of Chris’s A/T friend for a serious drink of good local local boutique beers and also took the opportunity to test the authenticity of an alleged Aussie Outback bar. Well thetoilets were labelled Sheilas and Blokes and they had special Aussie Fries! NO further comment needed.
My one non-highlight of my stay with Seth was the experience of trying to eat fresh seafood in a landlocked City. The menus said fresh Marlin as the breakfast special but my old shoes would have been fresher and tastier. I dared to complain politely and the waitress offered a steak as replacement but then the supervisor decided to try and convince me that I should realize that Marlin was always tough and dry—– Mmm. I got my steak!

Well after 2 good days Seth drives me to Dillon to resume the journey after stocking up with food supplies at REI IN Denver. These stores are unbelievable and I hope they come come to Australia one day soon.
At Dillon it is overcast and cool with a hint of drizzle. Not a problem and indeed almost a relief after all the heat of the past few weeks. However within 1/2hr of Seth leaving me the temperature dropped about 20C and the drizzle turned to ice-rain. After 2hrs I am absolutely frozen. I cannot feel my fingers and my feet are really hurting so I decide I had better stop for safety reasons. Wet brakes, a heavy trailer and rain are not a good combination. I do not realize how cold I am until I call in at a service station to ask for the nearest motel. I cannot speak as I am shivering and jittering so much (Smallwood not able to speak – I can hear the comments already!) Luckily the hotel is only 200 yards away but once I get there a repeat performance of non-speech. They put me into my room and take my bike etc for me and almost throw me in a hot tub where I thaw out for an hour or more. I do not get proper feeling in my feet until the next morning and over the next few hours I eat four days food – there goes my stock up from REI!
The next morning I am told that when I had walked into the reception, I had been a beautiful blue colour!
The whole purpose of returning to the trail at Dillon was to complete the climb of the Hoosier Pass at 11,542ft the highest point of the ride but the forecast was for more rain and indeed snow at above 10,000ft.

Reluctantly I realize it is time to bail out and I decide to hire a car and drive to Pueblo to avoid the steep downhills. As I progress I see I have made the right decision. Even whilst driving I cannot enjoy the magnificent views of the Colorado scenery because it is hidden by clouds nearly all the way. A great disappointment but at least I am safe.
A good night’s rest in Pueblo and a visit to a magnificent library (that did not have a scanner!) and I set off towards Kansas and the long flat straight roads west